Getting There
Reaching the park is not altogether quick, cheap or easy, however it is well worth the effort and is an adventure in itself. We visited in August 2013 so the pricing given should be considered with this in mind. If you're planning to do the overnight tour as we did, you will need to allow four full days as you will likely require an overnight stay in Sukadana before and after the trek.
Pontianak
We flew from Jakarta to Pontianak on a local airline, which cost approx Rp 2 million return per person. If you have the time, a stopover in Pontianak is definitely worthwhile. If you allow yourself an extra day you can take a short visit to the Equator monument, see the new Dayak Longhouse, visit the streetside markets in the centre of town for beautifully beaded Dayak souvenirs, take a trip to the night market near the Palace where vendors sell Kalimantan gemstones at reasonable prices and at the same time, take a short boat ride down the Kapuas River (approx Rp 10,000 per person).
[The Equator Monument on Jalan Khatulistiwa]
[With family at the Dayak Longhouse]
[Beaded Dayak Panel]
If you have half an hour to stop by the durian market in the evening for a quick snack (Rp 10,000 per durian), even better!
[Durian Market]
Following a few nights' stay with our family in Pontianak, we took a four hour jet boat ride along the Kapuas River to Melano (approx Rp 150,000 per person one way). The ferry terminal is in Rasau about an hour's drive from Pontianak (if you don't have someone to drive you catch a taxi), however it may be possible to take a jet boat from the terminal near the palace in Pontianak directly to Sukadana - if you can find out how then this may save both time and money.
The Kapuas River is the longest in Kalimantan and as the boats are used for local transport (a little like catching a water bus), prepare for conditions to be cramped. You must arrive early to get a seat. The boat we took to Melano was designed to seat 18 people and carried 28, including passengers on the roof! Forget traveling with your suitcases - you will only have room to take a small backpack with you, especially if you have long legs. On the way there, if you would like to take photos try to sit on the port (left) side of the boat near the window, as you may encounter some seaspray on the starboard side once you get out into the open water.
[Inside the jet boat on the Kapuas River]
For a first timer, the journey was interesting and there was plenty to see, although you will find that most of the locals will sleep through it. The shorelines are dotted with palms and mangroves, there are fishing huts midstream and riverside villages bustling with activity, as well as long stretches of lush green jungle. The waterways are busy and people transport everything from motorbikes to cows up and downstream.
[Public transport Kalimantan-style]
[Fishing hut on the Kapuas River]
We recommend that you take a few snacks and something to drink as well, which you can purchase at the small shop at the ferry terminal before you leave. There are no toilets on board but the boat does stop a few times along the way to let people on and off, and you can expect a quick lunch break about half way through the journey if you're prepared to clamber up the bamboo pilings to get off.
[Boat stop]
The ride is fast and smooth while on the river, with the exception of a few waves created by other boats passing by. Once in the South China Sea (towards the end of the voyage as you head into Melano) the water can get a little (or very) choppy depending on the weather.
Melano to Sukadana
From Melano, it was a forty minute ride via Ojek to the Mahkota Kayong Hotel in Sukadana . 'Ojek' is the local name for a motorbike with rider for hire, and these wait for passengers at the boat stop in Melano - it cost us approx Rp 40,000 per person to get to the hotel and we booked our return journey in advance to ensure we would make it back to the ferry terminal in time for our return voyage. The Mahkota Kayong Hotel is located on stilts overlooking the South China Sea and ocean view rooms cost approx Rp 400,000 per night including breakfast. Please note that if you stay here you will be required to pay a cash deposit of Rp 500,000 as no credit card facilities are available. The hotel is clean and tidy, with 24 hour room service and professional staff, but there is no hot water - not that you really need it. The hotel does offer transport to and from the ferry terminal but it is expensive - approx Rp 500,000 one way . For information on the Mahkota Kayong Hotel visit: http://www.mahkotakayonghotel.com/index.php
(View from bedroom, Mahkota Kayong Hotel Sukadana)
Our guides met us at the hotel the evening we arrived to discuss the tour, then picked us up the next morning on motorbikes and transported us to the park. We booked the overnight tour which costs approx Rp 2 million for two people and includes transport to and from the hotel, park entry fees, an overnight stay in the park at the Lubuk Baji campsite, all meals and dedicated guides for the entire trek.
